I’m a bit of an odd consumer when it comes to automotive. I’m not quite rich enough to buy professional tools and make 10,000 horses, but I have enough time, money, and space to build some power and buy some tools that your typical home consumer wouldn’t. I’m hoping here to tell you about the mix of stuff I’ve used, made, and done.

Tools

I own a bunch of different tools, and my philosophy has been to buy tools 3 times. The first time, buy a cheapo name brand tool. No Amazon special tools with no brand, but you also don’t need Mac or Snap-on. Use this tool until you break it, or notice it’s not delivering on what you need. Get the cheapest one replaced under warranty if it’s broken and you can. Then, buy a middle of the road replacement. SK tools, Pittsburgh, some of the mid-range tools with a nice replacement policy. Harbor Freight rules for this. After this, save up and buy the nicest version. You should now have 2 or 3 of the same tool. The cheapest one is your loaner, the tool you cut the handle off and weld it to a pipe, your total beater tool. Don’t feel bad about leaving it in the rain. Your expensive tool is your daily driver. The mid-range is your backup. You need a second wrench on the other side of a bolt, you need a travel toolkit, you toss this in. Obviously this doesn’t apply to big budget items like power tools or diagnostic tools, then you just rely on vibes.

Sniper EFI

The Sniper EFI system from Holley rules. I know how carbs work, but it takes me a while to re-learn it every time I go to use one, and they can get annoying and finnicky when driving up and down elevations. I live around 4600ft, and when I go to the coast if I’m going for any performance tune with a carb my engines just run bad. EFI fixes this, and the system I have the most experience with is the Sniper EFI. I bought the Sniper Distributor Kit PN SNE-565-300K and Sniper Kit PN 550-516K 2022/10/26. The install is super easy. Follow the pictures, connect it the way they want, and bam, you’re in. The same goes for running it, you just fire it up and let it rip, and it learns along the way. Tuning it has been harder I’ve found, because you need a lot of software and actually need to know things, but on the SBC 305 it’s installed on I haven’t done much tuning at all, and it worked pretty well right out of the box.

My recommendation is to buy one if you have the cash. There are cheaper systems, but they don’t get the same level of support, and are more finnicky to set up. There are more expensive systems, but if you’re dropping 10k+ on a system you probably know better than I do and should ignore me. The next generation of Sniper is supposed to be better, but I haven’t tried it yet so I can’t speak for it.

CJ2A

Cruising the Nevada desert

I have a “1943” Willy’s “CJ2A” named the Dollar Gobbler. This was my first car, and before me it was owned by my father and grandfather. It has a small block Ford 289 in it, a NP435, and an overdrive. Top speed of 60mph - limited by the redline - and generally unreliable. This was my college car, which was hilarious and impractical, but everyone loved it. This has been non-stop problems, from headlight wires melting on the headers to breaking the stick off in the shift tower. Right now it is in pieces in my driveway, halfway through a Dana 60, front 4-link, full hydro power steering conversion. This has been a lot of work. I thought I’d save some time by ordering it from Rock Slayer Off-Road, but it’s been a lot of work fitting the kit. Partially because this is a non-standard vehicle, and the frame is heavily modified, partially because the kit is intended for I believe a CJ5, and finally partially because any project on this truck is a lot of work. Rock Slayer was pretty good, but I think if I did this again I’d just CAD it up and get it from SendCutSend/OSHCut. Cheaper and more personalized, as well as quicker iteration.

This was a very fun vehicle to learn driving and wrenching on, and I’m glad to still have it, but driving it after new vehicles absolutely reminds me of how much is missing or degraded here. It’s super capable, been through the Rubicon year after year, but part of that involves carrying half the vehicle in spare parts. New axles, new drivelines, a gallon of motor oil, a gallon of gear oil, a gallon of PS fluid. Sometimes it’s nice to just get in and go, no planning needed.

    A younger me with a younger CJ

    Loaded on the trailer after (another) breakdown

    Loaded on the trailer after (another) breakdown

    Loaded on the trailer after (another) breakdown

FJ40

The FJ40 on the day I got it home

I bought a 1969 Toyota FJ40 on 2022/10/22. It was priced to move, and it did move under its own power. It wasn’t in the greatest of shape, but nothing that I couldn’t fix. I test drove it, and didn’t notice anything unusual beyond a small radiator leak and oil leak. Pretty normal stuff for old vehicles. On the drive home, I found something much funnier. I stopped, got gas, and then took off on the short 10 minute drive, and not even a minute after leaving the gas station, I’m getting a call from my dad, who was following me: the brake lights aren’t working reliably. Oh well, it’s a short drive, he’s behind me, and I’m not going far anyways. A little more driving, and suddenly the engine just cuts out. No power, throttle isn’t responding, seems like my electrical just shut off, not a big deal on the rural roads. I clutch in, and try feathering the gas to get something. I’m letting the clutch back out to try and bump start it when all of a sudden it roars back to life. This is when I found out the next thing wrong: the hinged seat was not latched. I got leaned all the way back in my seat, the engine had a huge backfire, and all was good again. This happened a few more times on the way, but I was ready for it and didn’t get the same shock as the first time.

  • Rebuilt the engine
  • Replaced valve covers, cam, and intake manifold
  • Swapped the carb with a Sniper EFI
  • Rewired the entire thing, no original wiring left
  • Replaced brake master cylinder Up next is figuring out brake pedal return spring, a transmission rebuild, trying to find a hard top for cheap, and eventually maybe wiring up the winch.

Chevy 6500

The Chevy 6500 loaded up

I just bought a 1953 Chevrolet 6500. It was partially an impulse purchase - bought solely because I wanted a cheap titled shell to hack up into a buggy - but the price was right and the body and frame ended up being much better than I expected. I’m swapping it for a 454, redoing the electrical and adding a cage. After that, I’m going to swap the suspension and make it a big buggy. So far I have:

  • Pulled the old engine
  • Pulled the transmission
  • Removed all the wiring
  • Removed all the brake lines
  • Applied a rough coat of rust converter paint on the interior
  • Wire wheeled and flap disked most of the “hidden” paint in preparation for a repaint
  • Painted the firewall with Black 4.0

I’m probably going to keep the patina and clearcoat it, but that comes later. For now, a lot of work is needed, and like many projects I’m struggling to find time for it.

    The engine pulled

    Sidewise-on trailer view

    The rear frame rails

    Wiring up the fuse box

    The main electrical panel fully assembled

    Inside the cab after a wash, before stripping it down